Content © 2012-2017 by American IronHorse Owners Organization.  Use of AIH Logo Licensed by American Ironhorse, LLC
Golan Petcock Rebuild and Modification
by “Musky” with contributions from “Bandana” and “Ramblinman”
Originally Posted by Bandana  What you are getting is too much downward pressure on the curved washer which forces the rotor into the body too hard. This causes the tapers on the rotor and in the body to seize against one another, much like a Morse taper on a drill chuck when forced into the drill motor spindle. What I did was make a gasket from 0.017 inch thick paper gasket material and put it between the cover and the body. This relieved a little pressure on the curved washer and thus the rotor. Before disassembly, you may want to drain the fuel from the tank. To disassemble, I first removed the set screw on the lever, remove the lever, then remove the four screws holding the cover to the body. Put a rag under the petcock assembly when doing this since parts may fall out. Just get them back in the proper order when reassembling. There is no need to take out the rotor end of the rotor. Make sure the new gasket has holes for clearance for all of the holes in the cover. “Chopper” Doug Originally Posted by Ramblinman  I drained the tank and removed the lever and cover. Before I cleaned the cover I pressed it against the new gasket material and it left a perfect outline so I used a exacto knife and cut it out. I used a drill bit by hand to open the four screw holes. I cleaned the cone, added the gasket and put it all back together. It moves smoothly and effortlessly. My rebuild is using the tip that Bandana suggested adding a gasket between the back plate and petcock body and Ramblinman's tip in making the gasket. In some cases a rebuild kit from Golan may be necessary i.e. if the O-rings are destroyed... The gasket I used was AutoZone Part number# 3195. It was a 4X6 inch sheet, 1/32 thick, for use with fuel. I cut out holes for the screw holes, standoffs/dowels and the cone. The O-ring sits between the gasket and back plate. Tools needed: Gasket AutoZone PN# 3195 Torx T-15 for 4 screws on Back Plate 5/64 Hex Allen Key for Petcock Knob 5/16 Hex Head Socket for the Frame Mount bolt Red Loctite for Frame Mount bolt (1 drop) I want to also add that I should have used the new gasket I made, and traced it on the existing gasket paper for the next time I need to do this job, but I did not think of that until everything was re-assembled. * Although, I edited some of their information, I put this article together in collaboration with information supplied by Bandana and Ramblinman from the V2-Forum website along with my photos from when I did this job on Sunday 11/9/2014. Prepared by Musky  
NOTE:   Technical Information content is intended to help fellow members and is not here to be copied and sold.
ORGANIZATION ORGANIZATION OWNERS OWNERS For All American Ironhorse Motorcycle Owners
Golan Petcock
© 2012-2017   American IronHorse Owners Organization Use of AIH Logo Licensed by American Ironhorse, LLC 
Golan Petcock Rebuild and Modification
by “Musky” with contributions from “Bandana” and “Ramblinman”
Originally Posted by Bandana  What you are getting is too much downward pressure on the curved washer which forces the rotor into the body too hard. This causes the tapers on the rotor and in the body to seize against one another, much like a Morse taper on a drill chuck when forced into the drill motor spindle. What I did was make a gasket from 0.017 inch thick paper gasket material and put it between the cover and the body. This relieved a little pressure on the curved washer and thus the rotor. Before disassembly, you may want to drain the fuel from the tank. To disassemble, I first removed the set screw on the lever, remove the lever, then remove the four screws holding the cover to the body. Put a rag under the petcock assembly when doing this since parts may fall out. Just get them back in the proper order when reassembling. There is no need to take out the rotor end of the rotor. Make sure the new gasket has holes for clearance for all of the holes in the cover. “Chopper” Doug Originally Posted by Ramblinman  I drained the tank and removed the lever and cover. Before I cleaned the cover I pressed it against the new gasket material and it left a perfect outline so I used a exacto knife and cut it out. I used a drill bit by hand to open the four screw holes. I cleaned the cone, added the gasket and put it all back together. It moves smoothly and effortlessly. My rebuild is using the tip that Bandana suggested adding a gasket between the back plate and petcock body and Ramblinman's tip in making the gasket. In some cases a rebuild kit from Golan may be necessary i.e. if the O-rings are destroyed... The gasket I used was AutoZone Part number# 3195. It was a 4X6 inch sheet, 1/32 thick, for use with fuel. I cut out holes for the screw holes, standoffs/dowels and the cone. The O- ring sits between the gasket and back plate. Tools needed: Gasket AutoZone PN# 3195 Torx T-15 for 4 screws on Back Plate 5/64 Hex Allen Key for Petcock Knob 5/16 Hex Head Socket for the Frame Mount bolt Red Loctite for Frame Mount bolt (1 drop) I want to also add that I should have used the new gasket I made, and traced it on the existing gasket paper for the next time I need to do this job, but I did not think of that until everything was re-assembled. * Although, I edited some of their information, I put this article together in collaboration with information supplied by Bandana and Ramblinman from the V2-Forum website along with my photos from when I did this job on Sunday 11/9/2014. Prepared by Musky  
NOTE:   Technical Information content is intended to help fellow members and is not here to be copied and sold.
ORGANIZATION ORGANIZATION OWNERS OWNERS
Golan Petcock